Russian/Horsfields Tortoise

Russian/Horsfields Tortoise

Agrionemys horsfieldii formally Testudo horsfieldii

Russian tortoises are one of the smaller varieties of tortoise with male reaching 6�-8� and females being slightly larger at 8�-10�. They are quite a hardy tortoise, which make them an ideal starter reptile. They also have more personality then you usually associate with tortoises.

 Housing

Out Doors

If you plan to keep you tortoise outside you need to make sure that it is kept safe from predators (cats, dogs and even human thieves). Be aware that these tortoises like to dig and can get through surprisingly narrow gaps. Make sure all plants in the enclosure are edible and not poisonous. Provide you tortoise with somewhere to get out of the sun and hide if it feels like it. In colder climates a warm patch may be required. This can be provided through the use of outdoor light or a cold frame (small glass shelter usually used to germinate seeds).

Tortoise Tables

As the name suggest Tortoise tables are the ideal solution to housing a tortoise inside. A tortoise table is a very simple item and is very basic enclosure. I'd recommend making one yourself as large as is reasonable with the absolute minimum being 4"x2". Here is a link to a building guide.

Aquariums

I do not feel aquarium are a good choice of housing for a tortoise as they tend to be to narrow and do not provide good enough air circulation. If you do choose to use an aquarium I'd recommend covering the sides of the glass to a height where the tortoise cannot see out. This will prevent it getting stressed by trying to climb out through the glass. A small fan would also be a good addition to help air circulation.

Substrate

I like to give my tortoise a variety of substrates to give stimuli and help with other more practical matters. I use slate tile to create a feeding and basking platforms. I then use dig boxes with a 50/ 50 mix of play sand and garden loam. Instead of garden loam you can use any sterilized soil free from fertilizers and pesticides or coconut coir (make sure this is broken down sufficiently when mixing).

Another alternative is Timothy hay (not alfalfa or any other hay as they are too high in protein).

Temperatures

As with most reptiles tortoises need a temperature gradient to allow them to properly maintain their body temperature. The temperature should be 90F/ 32.2C under the basking spot and in the low 70F/20C in the cooler end of the enclosure.

Lighting

DO NOT USE FULL SPECTRUM LIGHTS THEY DO NOT EMIT UVB!

There are currently, three different good sources of UVB lights available to owners. The best is natural UVB from the sun. Second is Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB). The other is a florescent tube. 10% UVB rating is the best.
I do not feel compact fluorescents are suitable as they give out poor erratic light that can actually do damage to the eyes.

Feeding

These tortoises are strictly herbivores and should not be fed and meats or insects even if they show a desire too. The best diet for this tortoise is a low protein high fiber diet. They will eat a lot if aloud to as part of their natural instinct as they would normally hibernate for most of the year. As such they may need restricting to prevent health issue.

I feel that these are the best common store bought salads for my tortoise.

Romaine lettuce
Endive
Escarole
Radicchio

Stay away from things like iceberg lettuce which has little nutritional value and is mainly water. Feeding iceberg lettuce can also cause diarrhea.

Prickly pear flowers, fruit and pads (burn the spines off) are a great high calcium feeder if you can get hold of them.

Dandelions and other weeds are also great feeders, but are cautious and make sure that no pesticides or fertilizers have been used in the area (this includes you neighbors whose spaying may have been carried across to your garden.)

Avoid foods high in:

Oxalic acid should be avoided as it binds calcium negating its effect. It�s found in things like spinach.

Phytic acid which again binds calcium and protein. This can be found in peas/ beans and wheat.

Goitrogens diminish the intake of iodine by the thyroids. High levels for a prolonged time will cause the thyroids to increase in size leading to hyperthyroidism. This can be found in spinach, cabbage and broccoli.

Supplementation

Russian tortoise will self supplement calcium if aloud to do so. I�d recommend leaving a cuttlefish bone in your tortoise enclosure These are high in calcium and will help keep you tortoises� beak in trim. There are on very rare occasion too successful and need to be removed before the beak is worn too far, but this is a slow process and can easily be spotted. For tortoises kept under tube UVB lighting I recommend dusting the food in Rep-Cal calcium with D3 or miner-all (I) to make up for the UVB output. I would suggest doing this at least 3x a week. A weekly dusting of retivite or herptivite is also beneficial.

Health Issues

Parasites - I�d recommend regular fecal checks especially when kept outside and before each hibernation period.

Shell rot - This is a fungal/ bacterial infection that can effect scratches and chips in a tortoise shell. You can povidone-iodine based ointment to treat minor cases. Apply with cotton wool and rub gently with a soft bristle tooth brush.

MDB (Metabolic Bone Disease) - Symptoms include shell deformities or softness. caused by improper diet and/ or lack of UVB.

Pyramiding - Also a symptom of MDB but may also be caused by feeding your tortoise a protein rich diet.

RI (Respiratory Infection) - These are caused by temperatures being too low and/ or extremes of humidity. Symptoms include crackling or rasping sounds when breathing and nasal discharge.

Hibernation

Hibernation is a worrying time for most tortoise owners. Previous lack of knowledge has caused many premature deaths to tortoise in the past. Proper research is important, but when done properly there is very little risk.

Hibernation is not essential, but I feel it is a natural process that a healthy tortoise should be allowed to go through. It also has certain health and potential mental well being benefits.

Before you wish to hibernate your tortoise you must get a fecal exam if its all clear then you proceed and stop feeding your tortoise for 4 weeks prior to the actual hibernation. This sounds cruel, but it is essential to clear the intestines so the food will not sit in there and rot while it�s in hibernation. During this period you should bath your tortoise in warm water at least 3 times a week. In the 4^th week turn off the heat and UV lighting allowing it to slow down. Then after the 4 weeks are up place the tortoise in a box of shredded paper and place into the refrigerator.

You may want to place a digital probe into the fridge a few days before to monitor the temperatures. Ideal temp is 41F/ 5C.

Fresh air will be introduced each time you go in to get something out.

I find this is a much safer measure than putting it outside (garage/ shed) as the temperature is much more controlled.

Remove your tortoise once a week and weigh them quickly to make sure they are not losing weight. If it is they are losing a lot of weight wake them.

Russian tortoises can hibernate up to 9 months, but I think 2-3 months is sufficient. When waking up, put the tortoise in a warm room for � an hour to an hour to allow it to adjust before placing it into its enclosure (not directly under the heat lamp, but allow it to move there if it desires). Once it's been allowed to warm up for a few hours give it a warm bath and allow it to drink and expel any waste that may have built. After this it should return to normal.